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Candlekeep remake


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#161 leahnkain

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 06:10 PM

I hope you are doing well Rich, I know you mentioned Febuary was going to be a busy month for you. When you have a chance check your PM's.

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#162 Miloch

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 11:26 PM

Heya Guys, not dead or given up, just busy and occupied with the new love of my life.

Must be keepin' ya pretty busy, eh? ;) :whistling:

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#163 Big Poppa

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:26 AM

Wassup gang. Has been a case of long time no see but I hit a few roadblocks and had to disappear. No need to go in to that further.
I hope to slowly get back in to this. All my work is still here and ready to evolve. Just gotta get back in to the groove which I wanna do in the near future. Hope to get this topic updated real soon. Sorry to anyone who was waiting for me etc etc.
Laters
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#164 Kaeloree

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 04:46 PM

Awesome. Great to see you, Big Poppa, and can't wait to see more! :D

#165 leahnkain

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 05:58 PM

It's great to see you back!

Longing for the old pen and paper modules of the 70's and 80's. Experience AD&D's greatest adventures using the infinity engine: Visit our homepage at http://classicadventuresmod.com/


#166 Big Poppa

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Posted 06 September 2008 - 05:28 AM

Thx guys. Just been checking out what's been made in the the last 5-6 months. That custom gui mod looks cool.

Edited by Big Poppa, 06 September 2008 - 05:37 AM.

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#167 SConrad

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Posted 06 September 2008 - 08:13 AM

Welcome back. Good to see you around again. :)

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#168 Big Poppa

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Posted 08 September 2008 - 01:41 AM

All I have to do to finish the hobbiton like area was overlay the water so I started to do that and then I can crack on with new stuff. You can imagine how gay it is having to pencil in all that water with so many trees etc and with all that water. Took an hour to do about 20% of the water in the area. tut. . . . . Getting back in the groove though.

water_overlay.jpg

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#169 Aliya

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Posted 08 September 2008 - 04:13 AM

Nice picture! :D But I think, you should add some shadow.

#170 leahnkain

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Posted 08 September 2008 - 04:21 AM

All I have to do to finish the hobbiton like area was overlay the water so I started to do that and then I can crack on with new stuff. You can imagine how gay it is having to pencil in all that water with so many trees etc and with all that water. Took an hour to do about 20% of the water in the area. tut. . . . . Getting back in the groove though.

water_overlay.jpg


It looks sweet!

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#171 Big Poppa

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Posted 08 September 2008 - 04:46 AM

Everything casts a slight north easterly shadow. Water is the only thing that won't receive shadows. The reason being is that, with a 256 bit colour restriction. When water has to cast a reflection as well as being semi transparent. If you try to add shadow as well and then reduce from 32 bit to 256 colours, you end up taking way to much from the original source and it looks like trash. With the overlay in place though, it's not a deterrent at all.

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#172 Big Poppa

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 03:09 AM

Sweet. Finished the water overlays. (Thank **ck)

water_overlay_2.jpg

Onwards to the exciting stuff now (for me anyway) and make new stuff.

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#173 Aliya

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 06:22 AM

Great bridge. :) Shadow is sooo realistic...

#174 -s-k-

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 07:38 AM

what are you reducing to 256 the overlays or area image?

#175 Big Poppa

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 04:50 PM

when u have ure final render that u are happy with and area ready to turn it to tis format for the game. You have to reduce it's colour quality to 256 colours. It can be very frustrating as it can reduce something your were very happy with in to something rather less. Such are the engine's limits I guess.

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#176 Big Poppa

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 12:36 PM

2 more small interiors done. Here's one with a fire animation.

Home.jpg

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#177 -S-K-

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 01:52 PM

that is what I thought you were talking about but you do not have to reduce to 256.
I cant find what it is in photoshop but in paint shop it is 64k color (24bit) quite an improvement on the color count.
the only things that are 256 are .bam

BTY nice looking stuff

#178 Big Poppa

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Posted 11 September 2008 - 02:39 PM

In photoshop, what you need to use is . . . . . Under file in the menu, go down to the automate option. In here , use the conditional mode change an choose indexed image. Using a blending method of your choice, it will reduce the colours with as little loss of quality as it possibly can. After this is done. Re-open the now 8 bit image, turn it back in to a RGB by using the IMAGE/MODE option in the top menu and resave it it.
If you don't do all that crap and try to make the original render in to a tis file, you will see how the TIS can't handle to colour count. You will get a shockingly bad result.

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#179 -S-K-

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 12:49 AM

hehe wow, that is a lot of steps, with paintshop it is image -> Decrease color depth -> 64K -> [b]nearest color[b/] or error diffusion.
or just Ctrl + Shift + 5 then chose nearest color and since PSP remembers your last choice really, it is only the 3 keys and hit enter.

as with almost everything photoshop does it is at least one extra step to do the same thing in paintshop.
However paintshop always screws the alpha channel and cant make use of nvidia's normal map plugin :(
thus I am forced to use PH if it could I would never use it.

btw what 3d package are you using and are your images 100% 3d or do you use 3d models and put them all together in 2d?

#180 Big Poppa

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 02:14 AM

Yeah, I am sure there are many ways to do it. That's my way anyway :rolleyes:
My areas are 95% 3d renders. I save things like moss, grass, vines and cracks for after. Also blood etc. For that stuff, I use photoshop. If I need a human model, I will usually take something from poser.
Set up an account dude/dude-et. Show some of your work. It seems like you know what ure doing :cheers:

Quality over quantity baby

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